Remember, everyone starts as a beginner at painting. Just because you have never painted a house doesn’t mean you shouldn’t give it a try. The money you save by painting your own house in Yorkshire is money you can put into other home improvements. It can also be a fun thing for the whole family to do.
Choose the project closest to yours. Get started and you will soon know what color you want to paint your house and you’ll have a vision of what it is going to look like when you’re finished.
Here are some of the basics. Of course the first thing you need to do is wash down the walls of your house. A pressure washer can be rented at almost any rental yard in Yorkshire and is the best way to do that. Now go around with a scraper and remove all loose paint and chipped areas. You don’t have to scrape the entire wall, but any areas where the surface is not flat can cause you problems as you paint your house.
Next, figure out your square footage so you can determine the amount of paint you will need to buy. Buy your paint in 5-gallon pails, rather than gallons to save more money.
Talk to the helper at your local paint store and tell him about your project. They can help you decide on how many brushes and rollers and other items you will need. You can buy natural or synthetic bristles for oil based paints, but only use synthetic bristles with latex paint. The same rule applies to rollers. Good rollers can run you around $7, but buy high-quality paintbrushes. A good brush for cutting in around edges will run you about $30.
Make sure you purchased some painter’s tape. It’s blue tape that comes in different widths and is easy to remove without messing up your paint job. That brings us to preparation. Tape off all areas you don’t wish to get this color of paint on. If there are large areas to cover, make sure you pick up some rolls of plastic. You can tape the edges of the plastic down over whatever you need to cover.
Don’t paint out of the paint cans. First reason is that leaving the paint can open will dry out the paint and make it difficult to apply. Another reason is that your brush or roller picks up dirt and foreign objects, which will end up in your paint and may even change the color as you go along.
Do all of your cutting or trimming in before you paint the walls. Use a 4″ brush and with a smooth stroke guide it around the edges where you taped off. Make sure you have plenty of paint on your brush. The biggest mistake people make is trying to stretch the paint too far. Keep drips cleaned up as you go with a small rag. Remember you will be rolling up to the edge of your cut, so don’t worry about that, just make sure you cover the edges well.
Start on the edges of your walls and work your way toward the middle. Most people don’t do this and problems can result. If you start and new can of paint in the middle of the wall and there is any difference in the color at all, it will show up there more than it would on the edges. So with each new can of paint you open, start at the edges first.
Dip your roller in water (for Latex) or solvent (for oil-based paint), before you start. Whether you use a pan or a 5-gallon bucket with a screen, make sure you roll it out a little to make sure it isn’t dripping. You don’t need to go all the way from the top to the bottom as you paint. Do what you can reach.
Apply the paint in a Y or an N pattern, then apply paint in columns up and down smoothing out all the edges or ridges as you go. Again don’t try to stretch the paint out, make sure you have enough paint on your roller to give it a good coat. If you are applying more than one coat, make sure the first coat is completely dry before applying a new coat of paint.
Corners are a difficult part to learn to paint. If you aren’t careful, this is where you will see paint drips later. Get as close to corners as you can, but don’t scrape the roller against the corner. That will cause drips. If you are unsure, have a paintbrush handy to smooth out drips. That is also a good idea overall. Keep a paintbrush ready for taking care of any drips or ridges you leave behind. Doing this as you go is much easier than trying to fix it after it’s dry or partially dry.
Using tray liners for your paint trays will save you a lot of time at cleanup. Soak your brushes when done for awhile and they will also be easier to clean. For water based paint, soak in water and for oil based paint soak them in solvent.
I hope some of these tips have been helpful to you. Have confidence that you can do this job yourself. You will appreciate and enjoy it much more knowing that you or you and your family completed the job rather than hiring someone else to do it.
We should always learn from mistakes, ether by our own, or the misfortunes of others. These ten questions will limit the chance of ever repeating the same mistake twice. Decorating a home is an enjoyable experience its a time for change, and the opportunity to create new family memories.
Interior House Painting - Painting Rooms
Tools required: Large bucket, gauging trowel, Electric Mixer Drill, Spot Board, Finishing Trowel, Hawk and 1" and 4" clean paint brush. Materials: Bag of Board Finish Plaster or Multi-Finish Plaster, Clean Water.
1. Having applied scrim tape to the joints and nail heads of the wall that you are about to skim, mix the correct amount of plaster to a smooth creamy consistency. Having pre wet the spot board pour the plaster on to the spot board.
2. Having also wet your hawk and trowel, now load the plaster on to the hawk. To transfer the amount of plaster from the hawk to the trowel pass the trowel over the plaster on the hawk and "squeeze" the plaster onto the trowel creating a "sharp" wedge of plaster on the edge of the trowel.
3. Dividing the wall into three horizontal sections is a easy way when learning to apply plaster to the wall, start plastering at the top left (Note: if you're left handed start at the top right) of the top 1/3 of the wall moving across to the bottom right of the top 1/3 of the wall. Apply an even coat of plaster across the area of about 3mm in depth. Once you have covered this top 1/3 move down and repeat the process on the middle third. Once this is covered repeat on the bottom 1/3. This process or "pattern of three" will enable you to maintain control of the wall and predict the way in which the plaster will go off. It also helps you to know where you started using a new mix if you run out of plaster half way through a wall. Now smooth this first coat so that edges and corners are "sharp" using the wet small brush or edge of the trowel. Also, now smooth the wall following the "pattern of three" to a relatively smooth finish.
4. Now make a second mix of plaster and apply. This is the laying down coat. The first coat was called the roughing on coat. Follow the exact same "pattern of three" and this time aim for a smoother finish but without delaying the process of getting the entire wall plastered. Always remember that plaster will only remain workable for between 10 and 20 minutes prior to putting it on the wall.
5. Once you have covered the wall you can now do a first trowel on the wall to get it smooth. Again follow the "pattern of three",making sure holes are filled in and lines flattened. This is really your last chance to get the smooth finish that you require removing large lines and holes.
6. The next step is to trowel the wall in three sets of three trowels. The first set of three trowels is when the wall is becoming firm and you should trowel the wall with single stroke of the trowel three times. Up to 15 minutes later and using a moist 4" brush, brush the wall ahead of the trowel during the 2nd set of three trowels. This will help to lubricate the passage of the trowel over the drying plaster and prevent dragging.
7. Now up to 40 minutes later when the wall feels as hard as it does when set you can use the same technique as the 2nd trowel above to give a final finish to the plaster. This set of three trowels is done in the "pattern of three" and enables you to maintain a consistent finish across the wall. The final finish should be dull in appearance yet smooth to the touch.
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